Dungeon Stone Infinity Hallway
Dungeon Stone Infinity Hallway
3D
Published 2023-03-31T12:54:14+00:00
Instead of creating a separate entry for each set of bases, this entry is a collection for all the objects that get released. It will be updated with the photos and zip files of any future release. For instructions on how to get started with OpenForge, we have a set of tutorials.
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Instructions
How to make the Infinity Hallway
For this you will need plexiglass or polycarbonate. It must be 1/16" or smaller, but you may struggle if it's larger than 1/20" (0.05 inches). In metric 1mm or 1.5mm thick. You will also need a way to cut the plexiglass. I've included an svg if you have access to a laser cutter, but you can also get a plexiglass cutter. You are cutting for just under 2 inches by 2.5 inches. Once the plexiglass is cut, you will want to apply the window film cover, then trim that to size. Finally, paint the back of one of the pieces of plexiglass silver, and then after it dries, black.
How to make the Torches
Print the wall you want, a base (use the old base design to give yourself a little more space to play with if doing a 2x2 tile), and the matching floor that is cut for walls. Also print the torch. There's two torch versions, the textured one is better on a resin printer. If you have only FDM, both can work, but the older, untextured torch is easier to print on FDM.
Paint the tile and glue it, except for the wall.
Take one of the 2 pin dupont cables and cut it in half. Feed it through the hole. When the wire is out of the other side, pull it snug to get the connector fully into the wall. If you look at the photo above, you can see that the connector goes fully inside the wall. You will always want the cable to have the red and black wires the same on every tile you make. With the wall facing me, I put the red (power) on the left, and black (ground) on the right.
Strip some insulator off the end of the cable, long enough that you can feed it through the holes in the lily pad battery holder. Red goes to +, Black to -. I tend to strip off about an inch so that I can feed the wire through and then wrap it/tie it to make it secure. It's better if you solder it, but you can get away with wrapping.
Test the LED in the socket. The longer of the two wires should go in the red side of the connector. Once that's tested and it works, feed the LED through the torch body, test it again, and glue it down. I also prefer to file the plastic top to scar it up to make it better at diffusion. Finally I like to hot glue on the LED and shape that into a bit of a flame. Test it in the socket again.
Once it all works, you can start trimming the wire from the LED so it sits snug against the wall. Remember, you can't cut something to be longer, so trim it a little at a time and test until the torch can sit snug against the wall.
Remove the battery holder, and then glue the wall into place on the tile, ensuring the wire makes it inside the middle of the base.
Now, you can choose to feed it out through one of the clip holes, or trim it down and re-attach the battery holder. There's a photo above showing how I fit the lilypad inside the base.
Finally, if you have any problems, come chat in the openforge discord and we should be able to help you out.
Here's the set of gear I recommend:
- Flickering LEDs (You can do 3mm or 5mm, on net 3mm is probably better, but I did 5)
- 2 pin female Dupont cables
- Lilypad CR2032 Battery Holder (cabled interior in normal 2x2 floor, no soldering required)
- CR2032 Battery Holder (cabled exterior, or in a 2x4 floor, soldering required)
- CR2032 Batteries
Soldering
If you choose to go this path.
Also useful
- Hot Glue Gun (Used to cover LED and sculpt flame)
- Mini Files (For scraping up the LED surface for better diffusion)
| Date published | 31/03/2023 |