Printing
Hull:
The best is, if you print it with spiral vase methode. Then you will get a neat surface without any noses from layer change.
I printed with layer hight: 0.3 mm and width: 0.6 mm.
Anyway, you have to print it hollow with one perimeter otherwise it will not fit inside the interface part.
Decks: spiral vase
layer height: 0.3 mm
width: 0.4 mm
Hull interface: spiral vase
layer height: 0.3 mm
width: 0.5 mm
The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening.

The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.

Holes in support
The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph)
Don't use a drill, it will damage the material.
The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph)
Don't use a drill, it will damage the material!
The holes are not designed because holes are impossible to print in spiral vase mode.

Depending on how large you can print, there are two possible combinations of the hull and the deck.
hull: 160/160/94 mm or 149/149/116 mm
deck: 179/169 mm or 117/116/116 mm

Motor
Robbe Roxxy BL Outrunner 2834/8
Unfortunately, the Roxxy motor is not available anymore.
In principle you can take every motor between 26 mm and 28 mm diameter, and the screw holes must be on the shaft side.
It should not have more than 1100kv, otherwise the motor may become hot because it is not cooled by water or airflow of a propeller.

The most comparable to my motor I could find on HobbyKing , is this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42501__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_30_1100KV_Motor.html
Maybe also the smaller one could do it, though not so fast:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25076__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_26_1100kv_252w.html

Anyway, if you have a motor already, just give me the measurements and I will look if I can modify the motor mount.

Controller
RockAmp 5A XBEC
http://www.parkflieger.eu/antrieb-und-motor/regler-esc/rockamp/5645/rockamp-40a-regler-5a-xbec-v3-mit-ec3

Receiver
OrangeRx R615 DSM2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28554__OrangeRx_R615_Spektrum_JR_DSM2_Compatible_6Ch_2_4Ghz_Receiver.html

Servo
TGY-R5180MG

Sterntube
4/3 mm, 120 mm long

Driving shaft:
3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.

Propeller
M4 propellers need a bushing from M4 to M3.
Or you make a adapter as in drawing,

Coupling
The easiest way is to screw the printed coupling with M2 screws. But it holds not very long.
A better solution is to use rubber shock absorber like this:
https://www.banggood.com/M4-Series-Rubber-Shock-Absorber-Rubber-Vibration-Isolator-Mounts-p-948213.html
Additional you need two 8 mm aluminium rods 15 mm long.
In this rods you drill a hole from the one side and cut a thread M4 from the other side. The hole must be for one the diameter of the motor shaft (3.75mm) and for the other the diameter of the propeller shaft (3.0mm).
You can easiely drill a centered hole if you clamp the drill in a vice and the aluminium rod in a column drill.
Each rod needs two cross bore M2 to clamp the shaft.
I uploaded photographs of the coupling now.